The charming fishing village of Portofino is one of Italy’s most alluring resort destinations. Portofino is located along the Italian Riviera just north of the Cinque Terre. This beautiful town features a small harbor lined with colorful homes, designer stores and chic bistros along the boardwalk. It’s a tiny place, home to only 400 residents year-round and a handful of yachts. But it’s a gem that is absolutely worth a visit and makes for a perfect 2-night getaway.
Depending on your budget, you can stay in Portofino or Santa Margherita Ligure which is a great base for exploring the area.
What to see in Portofino
There’s not much to do in Portofino but wander and enjoy the beautiful setting of the town. Take a stroll along the harbor before making your way up past the church of San Giorgio to Castello Brown, a 15th-century castle overlooking the harbor. It’s worth the €5 entry ticket to enjoy the gardens and the highest viewpoint of Portofino Bay. If you’re in the mood for a longer walk, you can continue the trail to reach the Portofino Lighthouse and La Portofinese. This eco-farm produces local products (like craft beer, wine, and organic honey). It also arranges guided tours, picnics, and wellness experiences on the promontory.
For a decadent lunch with mesmerizing views of Portofino’s bustling square, book a table at DaV Mare – Trattoria di Pesce. Part of the Belmond Splendido Mare hotel, it’s a chic spot that serves excellent traditional dishes made with carefully-sourced, seasonal ingredients. Shellfish is the star of the show, but you’ll also find beef tartare, lamb chops and creative vegetable sides. The trofie with homemade pesto are tossed freshly at your table (and if you’re lucky, you’ll be served the entire pan to scoop every last noodle). The wine list has an ample selection of Ligurian labels, including heroic wines from the Cinque Terre, while the cocktails focus on artisan liquers distilled by family-run producers.
Tucked behind the piazzetta, Gepi is a quaint cafe-gelateria set in a pretty corner of town. Enophiles shouldn’t miss pulling up a seat at Winterose Wine Bar: this little enoteca is perfect for a glass of wine and a bite to eat at lunch or pre-dinner aperitivo. There are only 5 tables outside so call to book ahead. Across the harbor, Ristorante Lo Stello serves excellent fish dishes with scenic views of the water. And Trattoria Tripoli in the main piazza complements al fresco dining with classic cooking (including a delicious pesto lasagna).
How to get to Portofino
The closest train station is Santa Margherita Ligure, which is a great base for exploring the area. From here you can catch a bus, hop on a 15-minute ferry or come on foot. The 5km coastal trail is a beautiful walk that takes you past hidden coves, beach clubs, and seaside villas. Portofino is a pedestrian town but if you arrive by car, there is a parking lot off the main road.
Where to stay in Portofino
For a luxurious stay, the Belmond Hotel Splendido is unparalleled. This iconic property, originally a 16th-century Benedictine Monastery, has been welcoming VIPs since 1901. It is, hands down, the best place to stay in Portofino.
Even if you don’t stay overnight, it’s worth a visit for a panoramic lunch.
What to See in San Fruttuoso
You can’t miss a visit to the Abbey of San Fruttuoso while you’re in the area. The 13th-century Benedictine Monastery is set within a scenic bay that overlooks a pebbled beach. It’s a perfect escape for some sunshine and lunch. You can reach San Fruttuoso by ferry from multiple locations, including Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino. The hike is scenic but takes 2 hours, so we recommend the boat unless you’re up for a challenging trek.
During the summer, you can rent sun loungers from the Bagni San Fruttuoso or lay out on the free beach area. The cove is tiny so make sure to show up early to snag a spot. And as usual, visiting during the shoulder season is ideal! I visited on a warm day in April and the setting was pristine. For lunch, book a table at Da Giorgio, a little restaurant set above the sea directly across from the ferry dock. Eating trofie al pesto while gazing at the shimmering sea is certain to be one of the highlights of your trip.
What to do in Paraggi
Set between Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino, Paraggi is a hidden gem with a picturesque sandy cove and emerald-green waters. Known for its exclusivity and tranquility, this elegant beach destination is perfect for those seeking a peaceful escape. The crystalline sea makes it ideal for swimming, snorkeling, and paddleboarding, and its serene atmosphere feels worlds away from the bustle of nearby towns.
For dining, Langosteria Paraggi is a standout. This upscale eatery overlooks the bay, offering a refined menu of fresh seafood and Ligurian specialties. Whether you’re enjoying a leisurely lunch or sipping cocktails at sunset, the stunning views make every moment memorable. Guests lounging at the nearby beach clubs can also order from Langosteria’s beach menu for a luxurious, laid-back experience.
Where to Stay in Paraggi
Situated right in Paraggi’s exclusive little cove, the Eight Hotel Paraggi is an idyllic escape. The best part? It’s just a short stroll to Portofino.
What to do in Santa Margherita Ligure
And last but not least, Santa Margherita Ligure. While it may not have the same name recognition as Portofino, this chic port town offers a perfect blend of elegance and authenticity. Its vibrant marina, lined with colorful buildings, luxury yachts, and fishing boats, exudes a timeless Riviera charm. Santa Margherita is arguably the best place to stay in the area, thanks to its wide range of accommodations, from boutique hotels to grand seaside resorts, as well as excellent shopping and dining options.
The town’s lively streets are dotted with upscale boutiques, artisan shops, and historic cafés, making it a wonderful place for a leisurely stroll or a stylish aperitivo. Don’t miss the Basilica of Santa Margherita, a baroque gem that anchors the old town. The nearby Villa Durazzo, a 17th-century estate surrounded by lush gardens, offers panoramic views of the Gulf of Tigullio and is a peaceful spot to escape the crowds.
Santa Margherita is also an ideal base for exploring the coast. From here, you can catch a short train ride to Camogli, another beautiful seaside destination known for its colorful harbor and authentic Ligurian atmosphere.
Where to Eat in Santa Margherita Ligure
The best bakery in town is Fior di Ponti which serves up freshly baked bread, cakes, and Liguria’s famous focaccia. Order whatever flavor comes out of the oven because focaccia is best eaten when it’s warm and soft. It’s truly heavenly! For aperitivo, I loved Vineria Macchiavello, an old-school enoteca & bistro located along the main street. There are a few tables outside and you can enjoy abundant finger food to accompany your wine for under €10/person. Vernissage, a small cocktail lounge set on an incline beneath a stone castle, has friendly service with panoramic views of the port.
For lunch or dinner, Reve Cafe is a cozy and romantic little bistro that serves local (and some international) dishes. Angolo 48 is another lovely place that serves contemporary, Ligurian cuisine while Ristorante Beppe Achilli has a great location along the waterfront.
Where to Stay in Santa Margherita Ligure
The Grand Hotel Miramare is a beautiful hotel with a panoramic pool and gardens. Villa Gelsomino Seaside Luxury House is set within a 19th-century palazzo with a gorgeous terrace. If you prefer curated, boho accommodations, try BluDiTe.
