Polignano a Mare is one of the most iconic destinations in Puglia. Only 20 miles south of Bari, it has long been a favorite seaside destination for locals. Polignano is known for its stunning beaches surrounded by high cliffs and a pretty historic center with excellent restaurants, views and artisanal shops.
Most people visit Polignano on a day trip, but we recommend staying overnight so you can fully enjoy the magic of the town. Be aware that this small town is very popular so it’s best to visit on weekdays in the shoulder season. Come in May, June, September or October for perfect weather and swimming!
How To Get To Polignano A Mare
You can easily reach Polignano from Bari on a regional train. Buy tickets on the Trenitalia app or website, or directly at the station. The journey is short and sweet: it’s only 25 minutes to the Polignano a Mare stop, which is 15-minute-walk away from the city center (and the closest beach). Direct trains are also available from the stations of Brindisi and Lecce.
Prefer to drive? Here’s how to plan the perfect road trip through Puglia.
Where To Stay
Dimore di Brando
Dimore di Brando is a charming boutique hotel set in a historic building in the center of town. The property has a rooftop terrace for enjoying a sunset aperitivo, and many rooms have private balconies with sea views (two also have outdoor jacuzzis). The atmosphere here is minimalist and luxurious, with curated details like local tiles, chandeliers and stone sinks.
Where To Swim
Puglia has a beautiful coastline so I recommend going to a different “cala” (cove) each day.
Lama Monachile
Lama Monachile is located right in the city center so you can’t miss it. This beach is extremely popular because of its scenic views – including an old Roman bridge that surmounts the cove. This is a “spiaggia libera” meaning you don’t have to pay a fee to access it but it gets very crowded, so come early. The area is filled with stunning caves so I recommend renting a canoe or a paddle boat to explore them, or by book a guided boat tour.
If you’re planning to visit this spot, make sure you check the calendar of the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series. This yearly international diving competition tours around the world and stops in Polignano A Mare, more precisely on the cliffs of Lama Monachile.
Cala Paura
Another must-see spot is Cala Paura. Getting here requires a little more walking, but it’s definitely worth it. Although it’s bigger than Lama Monachile, it’s not as well known, allowing for a more relaxing stay. This cove has both a “spiaggia libera” and a private area where you can rent a beach umbrella and lettino (or lounger) for €16.
Unlike Lama Monachile, Cala Paura is in a pretty isolated area, so make sure you stock up on water and food before you head over. If you’re not a pro swimmer, I also recommend stopping at one of the many shops selling beach items and getting yourself an inflatable pillow. Depending on the direction of the wind you might run – or swim – into heavy waves that make it harder to stay afloat.
What To Do In Polignano A Mare
Don’t make the mistake of coming to Polignano and leaving right after taking a dip in the sea. Instead, take your time discovering the cultural and artistic heritage of this small town.
Discover the Old Town
The large doorway “Porta Grande” marks the entry point to the Old Town. It was once part of the wall protecting the city from outside attackers. The moment you step through it, you’ll be presented with a labyrinth of streets dotted with small churches and observation points looking upon the coast. As you roam around, keep your eyes open for poetry lines you’ll find painted on everything from walls to stairs. This street art is the work of Guido Lupori (known as “Guido il Flaneur”) who transformed the town into an open-air book.
Shop for Artisanal Souvenirs
If you want to bring home a unique souvenir from Polignano, there are many shops with quaint items. A personal favorite is Rifatti ad Arte, where artisans Jessica and Mimmo sell jewels made of olive wood and resin. Honorable mentions also go to No‘, an atelier selling clothes handmade in Puglia, and La Contessa, a ceramics shop where you’ll find the Apulian pumo, a pine cone made of ceramic usually gifted to family and friends to symbolize new beginnings.
Walk In The Footsteps Of Domenico Modugno
Honor one of Italy’s most iconic singers, the voice behind the beloved song “Nel Blu, Dipinto di Blu,” by visiting the statue of Domenico Modugno on the lungomare. While you’re there, take a stroll along the promenade to enjoy the sunset. As night falls, make your way to Via Roma, the main street in Polignano, where neon lights illuminate the lyrics to “Nel Blu, Dipinto di Blu” in a beautiful tribute to Modugno.
Explore the Pino Pascali Art Museum
Polignano is the birthplace of not just one, but two renowned Italian artists. In addition to Modugno, the sculptor Pino Pascali was also born here, and today the city proudly showcases some of his most famous works. These can be found at the Fondazione Pino Pascali, which is also the only modern art museum in Puglia. Beyond Pascali’s creations, the museum hosts works by other national and international artists, including Lida Abdul, Mat Collishaw, and Claudio Abate.
Where To Eat In Polignano
After a whole day soaking up the sun and exploring the streets of Polignano, you will likely be starving. Good thing Polignano has some of the best food in Puglia. Here are some of the spots and foods you don’t want to miss.
Da Luciano’s Focaccia
For a quick but delicious on-the-go lunch, head to Da Luciano, a bakery in downtown Polignano. Here you’ll find everything from sandwiches and fried delicacies to pasta and pizza. I recommend trying a Pugliese classic: tomato and olive focaccia. Pair it with a Peroni, the most popular beer in Southern Italy.
Panzerotti At La Rotellina
Another great on-the-go spot open for lunch or an easy dinner is La Rotellina. This hole-in-the-wall restaurant offers sweet and savory variations of panzerotti, a traditional Pugliese dish that is essentially a deep-fried pizza pocket. Try the ground beef, tomato, mozzarella, and mushroom panzerotti, and the mortadella and provolone ones. Don’t forget to order a sweet version as well. The ricotta and pear panzerotto is to die for.
Everything Fish At Pescaria
Fish lovers, you can’t leave Polignano without making a pit stop at Pescaria, a fast-food all’Italiana. Forget McDonald’s or Five Guys, this restaurant offers seafood sandwiches filled with anything from squid to shrimp to raw fish. And it’s all fresh.
Grigliata And Pasta At Leo’s
If fish isn’t for you, you can’t go wrong with Leo’s Braci D’Autore. This restaurant is located in a quiet corner of Polignano so it’s perfect for a romantic dinner. You cannot miss their traditional meatballs and mixed grilled meats, or if you’re a pasta person, their torchietti with squash blossoms and crispy guanciale are a must.
Gelato At Caruso
Nothing says Italian summer quite like gelato on a hot afternoon. Caruso has been one of the best at making artisanal gelato since 1956, and they offer both traditional and more unique flavors. If you prefer to keep it simple, try their pistachio and hazelnut gelatos, but if you’d like to taste something out of the ordinary, you have to order their figs and gorgonzola flavor!
