One of Italy’s most famous volcanoes, Mount Vesuvius has defined life in the surrounding region for thousands of years. Its fertile slopes are home to vineyards, orchards and communities that have lived in its shadow for generations.
Best known for the eruption of AD 79, Vesuvius buried Pompeii and Herculaneum beneath ash and pumice. Yet the same volcanic forces that once brought devastation also created some of Italy’s richest soil. Today, farmers cultivate piennolo tomatoes, hanging them in scarlet clusters through winter, and grow the grapes used to produce Lacryma Christi wine.
The Italians have a word for it: arrangiarsi — the ability to make the best of whatever life gives you. Around Vesuvius, life happened to give people an active volcano. They turned it into a place where ancient ruins, volcanic vineyards and grand villas exist side by side.
Visit Pompeii, Herculaneum & Other Archaeological Sites
Pompeii is the largest and most famous archaeological site in the area, but it is only part of the story. Further along the coast, Herculaneum offers a more intimate glimpse of Roman life, while Oplontis preserves the opulent seaside villas of the Roman elite.
Learn more about the five archaeological sites you can visit near Pompeii here.
Taste Volcanic Wine
The vineyards surrounding Vesuvius are some of the most distinctive in Italy. Mineral-rich soils produce wines with depth, character and a subtle salinity that reflects the proximity of both mountain and sea. Indigenous white grapes include Falanghina and Caprettone, while Piedirosso and Aglianico bring structure and depth to the reds. To drink here is to taste contrast: ash and salt, sunshine and sea, elegance and volatility.
Legend has it that when Lucifer was cast out of Heaven, he stole a piece of paradise to create the Gulf of Naples. Looking down at the beauty and sorrow of the land, Christ wept. Where his tears fell on the volcanic soil of Mount Vesuvius, the first vines of Lacryma Christi — Tears of Christ — began to grow.
Quirinoli Winery
Small and family-run, Quirinoli Winery limits guest numbers to create a more intimate experience among the vines. Tastings with lunch start from €50 and include a selection of Vesuvian wines paired with local cheeses, seasonal vegetables, homemade pasta and dessert. This was my favorite of the two wineries: we had the estate to ourselves, with white-tablecloth service and a front-row view of Vesuvius rising above the vineyard plots.
Cantina del Vesuvio
Cantina del Vesuvio is a larger, livelier estate with sweeping views across the Gulf of Naples. Tastings with lunch start from €50, with cooking classes and private dining also available. Our three-course meal paired organic Lacryma Christi wines with spaghetti dressed in Piennolo tomatoes, tender meatballs and traditional pastiera.
Don’t miss Donna Ester, the estate’s distinctive condiment made from Lacryma Christi wine and served with olive oil. A complimentary shuttle is available from Pompeii and Torre Annunziata when reserved in advance.
Climb Mount Vesuvius
Vesuvius was an essential stop on the 18th-century Grand Tour, considered every bit as important as Rome to travelers seeking the wonders of the peninsula. The volcano remains active, although it has been quiet since its last eruption in 1944. If you’re going to come all this way, you may as well climb it.
At the top, you can look directly into the vast crater, where small fumaroles sometimes release wisps of steam. Views stretch across the Gulf of Naples, and you may even find one of the small stands selling glasses of local wine — a fittingly Neapolitan reward after the climb.
Book your crater tickets online in advance, as entry slots can sell out, particularly in summer. The trailhead can be reached by private transfer, organized excursion or shuttle from Ercolano, though schedules should be checked before your visit. An early start will help you avoid the worst of the heat and crowds, and there is little shade along the trail. The route is short — around 2.5 miles round trip, or 90 minutes — but the incline and loose volcanic gravel make it more demanding than the distance suggests.
Go Horseback Riding
Where else in Europe can you ride through vineyards growing on the slopes of an active volcano? Villa de Cillis Carafa, a historic villa hotel on the slopes of Vesuvius, offers guests one-hour guided rides through the surrounding countryside.
Climbing onto a horse beneath the full glare of the southern Italian sun — for the first time since childhood and, for my partner, the first time ever — will forever be a core memory. Our lovely instructor, Alexandra, gave us time to become acquainted with our horses before leading us through the vines as the day dissolved into gold above the Gulf of Naples.
Vesuvius remained a constant presence on the horizon as we ducked beneath fig, chestnut, walnut and lemon trees, their sweet scent filling the warm evening air. That is, once I had persuaded my horse, Mary, to stop grazing her way through the vines.
Where to Stay Near Mount Vesuvius: Villa de Cillis Carafa
Set within one and a half hectares of gardens and ancient citrus groves, Villa de Cillis Carafa is a truly special place to stay near Mount Vesuvius. The historic residence forms part of the Golden Mile, a stretch of coastline rich with aristocratic villas and archaeological treasures. In the 18th century, it was a popular stop for travelers embarking on the Grand Tour.
The villa has been carefully restored, preserving its historic architectural details while introducing rich fabrics, period furnishings and hand-painted Vietri floor tiles. Each of its 10 rooms and suites has its own color palette and character.
So, it’s hardly surprising that the villa seduces visitors so easily — there is something deliciously contradictory about the place. By day, you can wander through baroque gardens and sleep beneath crystal chandeliers, pretending — at least briefly — that you belong to Neapolitan nobility. Then you look up and remember that these indulgent aristocratic fantasies exist on the slopes of an active volcano.
I had the privilege of staying in the Eleonora Carafa D’Andria De Cillis room, the villa’s Regal Junior Suite. Once used for formal dinners, the room retains its original 18th-century headboard, now reupholstered in Rubelli silk depicting the Marquis of Carabas. Above it, a repainted baroque vault and crystal chandelier catch both the garden light and the burning sunset, while the terrace looks toward the Sorrento Coast and Capri. It remains the most exquisite room I’ve had the pleasure of sleeping in.
Beyond the parterres of clipped box hedging, the gardens contain a collection of rare citrus trees, including finger lime, Buddha’s hand citron and bizzarria orange. Their fruit appears at breakfast in fresh juices and homemade lemon and orange marmalades — I would have taken home buckets of the stuff if I could.
What made the stay truly unforgettable, however, was the warm and attentive hospitality: Villa de Cillis Carafa felt less like a hotel and more like a cherished private home. It is a fitting base from which to experience a place that has always turned proximity to danger into beauty.
