Villa Treville is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful hotels I’ve ever stayed at. It’s expensive, but if you can afford it, there are few hotels in Italy that feel this magical. The terraces and gardens are lush, while the interiors — filled with lanterns, antiques and treasures collected over decades — give the whole property the feeling of a theatrical private home. It’s, without question, one of the most romantic hotels in all of Italy.
A Little Background
Treville takes its name from the three original villas on the estate — white, pink and blue — and the name has stuck through every chapter of the property’s life since.
The property was owned by Franco Zeffirelli, the legendary Italian director behind Romeo and Juliet and La Traviata, who bought it in the 1970s and made it his summer home. He entertained everyone here: Maria Callas, Leonard Bernstein, Rudolf Nureyev, Elizabeth Taylor, Coco Chanel, Liza Minnelli.
Zeffirelli worked with his set designer Renzo Mongiardino to give the property its distinctive Moorish character — lanterns, arabesques, intricate tilework, much of it sourced directly from Morocco. This makes more sense when you know the history: the Amalfi Coast was a major Mediterranean trading hub during the Middle Ages, and Arab influence runs deep across southern Italy. You see it in the Duomo di Amalfi, in the region’s ceramics and architecture, in the Norman-Arab style that shaped so much of the south.
Mediterranean color and light, Moorish geometry, patterned textiles, vintage furnishings collected over decades — this fusion could feel chaotic, but at Treville it works effortlessly. The whole property is theatrical and photogenic: the terraces cascading toward Positano, the lantern light at dusk, the secret staircases between villas. It became a hotel in 2010 but still feels more like a private home. Madonna and Jennifer Lopez have both celebrated birthdays here in recent years, which tells you something about the atmosphere.
Why We Love It
As soon as you arrive, you’re transported to another realm. From reception, you descend by elevator directly into the rock of the cliff, emerging into an entirely white corridor — white tiles, white walls — lined on both sides with Moroccan lanterns.
The views of Positano from the terraces are some of the best on the coast — perfectly framed, the town tumbling down to the sea below, the horizon stretching out beyond. From here you enjoy shaded views over one of the world’s most beautiful coastlines from cushioned terraces covered in jasmine and bougainvillea. The rooms are dotted around those terraces, reached by ivy-laden staircases and tucked into the tropical gardens in a way that feels private and comfortable, with mesmerizing views at every turn. The whole property has the feeling of a small village rather than a hotel.
In summer, Positano below is relentless — the crowds, the noise, the narrow streets packed with people. Up here, that world feels very far away.
The Rooms
The 16 suites are spread across four villas, each named after a Zeffirelli muse or production. Throughout, the decor blends Mediterranean warmth with eastern and vintage elements — antique furnishings, Carrara marble, maiolica tilework, hand-painted ceramics — and many rooms have private terraces, heated plunge pools, and bathrooms with views of Positano and the sea.
The Bernstein Suite is one of the most memorable: a spacious suite with a unique circular shower room — built inside the property’s original brick bread oven — and an outdoor bathtub set in a private tropical garden. The Romeo e Giulietta Suite, painted in passionate reds and looking out toward the Li Galli islands, was made for a romantic stay. At the top of the property, Zeffirelli’s own four-bedroom suite is the grandest on the estate: turquoise and gold, original art and artifacts collected by the director, and a bathtub with views of Positano that are genuinely hard to leave.
Dining
Maestro’s is the property’s main restaurant, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner on an open-air terrace with ivy-covered columns, Moroccan lanterns, and Positano spread out below. The menu is rooted in Campanian tradition — elevated without tipping into gourmet territory, which is how I prefer to eat on vacation. You’ll find dishes like seared tuna in a crispy crust, spaghetti with sea urchin, lemon zest and puntarelle, and grilled fish with artichokes and Sorrento orange-marinated shavings. For something more Michelin-style, book a table at Il San Pietro — another luxury hotel right next door.
For aperitivo hour, head to Bianca Bar — Zeffirelli’s original white salon, all pale tiles and high ceilings — where cocktails are mixed using botanicals and herbs from the property’s own gardens. The outdoor terrace is the centrepiece of the whole property: deep sofas, bright cushions, Moroccan lanterns, and Positano perfectly framed below.
On The Property
Treville doesn’t have a pool, but it does have On The Rocks — its own seafront spot at the base of the cliff, where sun loungers and blue and white parasols are arranged right at the water’s edge. It has a charmingly retro, very Amalfi feel, and doubles as the private dock where you board the complimentary boat shuttle to Positano — five minutes across the water.
La Traviata spa occupies a sunlit greenhouse and uses Dr. Barbara Sturm products. It also has heated grotto pool carved into the rock with sea views — something you won’t find anywhere else.
The Details
Consider visiting Treville in shoulder season when rates are more accessible and the coast quieter. In April, the estate is covered in wisteria, while October brings warm enough seas for swimming and golden light that makes the whole coast look like a painting.
Rates: from approx. €1,500/night in peak season, suites considerably higher
Best season: May, June and September, or April and October for better value.
Getting there: Naples or Sorrento by road (approx. 1.5 hours)
