You’re familiar, of course, with Italy. With its cobblestone piazzas and historic churches, with its cozy, low-lit restaurants, and clusters of sorbet-colored houses. Your Instagram feeds are probably laden with Positano’s iconic striped beach umbrellas, and Florence’s towering Duomo. But I’m willing to bet you’ve never heard of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. A region tucked away in the northeasternmost corner of the country. And you wouldn’t be alone—many Italians have never set foot in this region, either!
If you’re looking for a local, authentic experience on your next trip to Italy, then Friuli-Venezia Giulia (or FVG) is the destination for you. Largely untouched by wandering crowds, FVG is a region governed by its jaw-dropping nature. Here, the Adriatic sea can be reached from the Dolomite mountains in just one hour. It’s a place where, much like the rest of Italy, food and drink take precedence. A place where vineyards cling to the vast open spaces that characterize the region’s landscape.
In this, and many other ways, Friuli-Venezia Giulia is typically Italian. Unlike other areas of Italy, however, it boasts its own unique culture and personality. Its heels dug stubbornly into its long-standing traditions. For example, it’s one of only two regions whose dialect is so far removed from modern Italian that it’s considered to be a language in its own right (the other is Sardinia). Since a vast array of countries and regions surround the area, FVG is a tapestry of differing cultures, drawing inspiration from each other to create its character; beloved by locals and visitors alike.
Venture away from the well-trodden trails on your next trip to Italy and discover Friuli-Venezia Giulia with our regional guide.
1. Shop in Udine’s Picturesque Via Mercatovecchio
Known as the heart of Friulian culture, Udine is a university city situated in the center of the region. Its elegant architecture and youthful, lively culture make it one of the most well-visited destinations in FVG. On the weekends, the historic center is often flooded with chatter as people mill between the city’s squares in search of their next aperitivo.
The newly-pedestrianized Via Mercatovecchio is arguably the most picturesque street in Udine. Here tables from curbside bars flood onto the busy cobblestone streets. Via Mercatovecchio is also one of the primary shopping destinations in the city. With a range of small, independent clothing boutiques you’ll spend a nice afternoon admiring their wares. Afterward, head to the nearby Galleria Bardelli. This leafy shopping arcade was built in the 1940s and has popular stores such as Zara and Sephora.
2. Take a Walk Around the Breathtaking Laghi di Fusine
When in FVG, you can’t miss taking a short walk in the mountains. The picture-perfect Laghi di Fusine makes the ideal place to immerse yourself in Friuli’s nature. These two beautiful neighboring lakes are plunged into the quiet wonder of the Dolomites. Note: you don’t need to be a seasoned trekker to enjoy a hike around the lakes. Just a stone’s throw from both the Slovenian and the Austrian borders, the Laghi di Fusine feel suspended from reality. Protected by rows of pine trees, the dramatic mountains are reflected in the still, blue water of the lakes. The family-run Albergo Capanna Edelweiss is a log cabin that overhangs the lower lake, offering a handful of cozy rooms where travelers can rest their heads. For a quick snack or coffee break, Belvedere’s generous wooden terrace proffers an unparalleled view of the surrounding landscape.
3. Enjoy an Evening Aperitivo in Trieste
Probably the most widely-known destination in Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, the city of Trieste gives the region a well-needed jolt of cosmopolitan flair. It’s a true melting pot of Slavic, Austrian, and Italian cultures. The creative community in Trieste fuels the city’s literary culture. Its elegant, dark-wood coffee houses once served as meeting places for some of the world’s greatest writers and philosophers, such as James Joyce and Sigmund Freud.
Trieste’s coffee culture is one of their proudest outputs, with world-renowned company Illy stemming from this very spot. Trieste even has an entire vocabulary for ordering different types of coffee. In the evenings, university students wander the streets in search of alcohol, stopping at bars near Piazza Unità d’Italia and the Canal Grande for an Aperol Spritz or an Americano as the night wears on. Cocktail bar Mast is the place to go for unusual cocktails and even quirkier décor, with its low stone arches and swings hanging from the ceiling.
4. Taste San Daniele’s Famous Prosciutto
The hilltop city of San Daniele is charming for many reasons. Firstly, it’s located just at the foot of the mountains and guarantees incredible views at any time of year. Secondly, it boasts a population of just 8,000 people, making it one of the region’s cutest, most pocket-sized destinations. Most importantly, San Daniele is one of the country’s main producers of the region’s famously delicious prosciutto. The region’s micro-climate is perfect for curing the ham. The winds blow in from both the Alps and the sea, making this a prized delicacy for over 40 years.
One of the best places in town to sample Prosciutto di San Daniele is Enoteca Prosciutteria La Corte di Bacco. This enoteca is nestled almost inconspicuously in the shadow of the imposing Duomo di San Michele Arcangelo. Their shaded stone courtyard is almost ethereal, it’s the perfect setting in which to enjoy their locally-sourced prosciutto!
5. Stroll Down the Streets of Cividale del Friuli
Just minutes from the Slovenian border, the compact Cividale del Friuli is one of FVG’s most unique towns. A vision in vivid blues and greens, Cividale’s center borders the icy-fresh Natisone river which runs from the surrounding mountains in a rush of turquoise. The Ponte del Diavolo (Devil’s Bridge), is one of the most recognizable landmarks in Cividale. As such, it makes for a particularly beautiful photo opportunity.
During the winter months, Cividale is celebrated as the home of gubana. This traditional Friulian dessert is made with leavened dough and flavored with cinnamon and dried fruits. Sample this delicacy at the historic Panificio del Foro which excels at preparing sweets over the holidays. You should also visit the Casa Medioevale, a crumbling goldsmith’s house constructed during the 1300s and still stands proudly today.
6. Find Peace in the Tranquil Marano Lagoon
Often overshadowed by the neighboring Venice Lagoon, the Laguna di Marano is an oasis of calm amidst the chaos of FVG’s vibrant beach towns. Unique in its landscape, Marano Lagoon is an undiscovered gem marked by traditional wooden casoni, or fishermen’s houses, which seem to float in the still waters. The Laguna di Marano boasts two nature reserves with their own range of flora and fauna. Note: it’s best to visit by boat.
For a stay unlike anything you’ve experienced before, book a night at the Marina Azzura Resort. Its chocolate-box lagoon and river houseboats sleep up to 6 people. Their wooden terraces make the ideal location for a romantic dinner for two. Enjoy the food as the sunset sparkles across the water.
7. Order a Seafood Platter in Grado
At the eastern end of Marano Lagoon lies the island of Grado. Accessible from the mainland by a long, narrow bridge, Grado is one of the region’s most well-visited seafront destinations. It’s as popular with locals as it is with visitors. Although most come to Grado for its golden, sandy beaches lapped by the warm waves of the Adriatic, Grado is best experienced via its authentic osterie. Each offers locally-caught fish and fresh seafood.
The best place in Grado to sample the local cuisine is Trattoria de Toni. This nearly 80-year-old restaurant is settled into the heart of the stone-clad city center. With tables that trickle onto the street, this setting is perfect to enjoy a colorful seafood platter laden with prawns, crab, and scallops, among other delicacies. Toni’s also offers a selection of decadent pasta dishes like spaghetti alle vongole (with mussels) and tagliatelle con tonno e melanzane (tuna and eggplant).
8. Take in the View from the Mountaintop City of Gemona
Protruding bravely from the rugged peaks of the Dolomites, the city of Gemona has one of the most interesting and heartbreaking stories of any destination in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. In the early 1970s, Gemona was almost entirely destroyed by one of Italy’s most devastating earthquakes. As a result, the architecture you see today—despite appearing to have leaped from the pages of a history book—are almost complete reconstructions.
In spite of the sadness which cloaks Gemona’s history, the city today is bright and hopeful. Gemona’s colored stone buildings stand proudly and catch the final rays of the evening sun. For striking views across the valley below, head to the city’s eponymous castle. You can admire the sunset beyond the mountains on the benches speckled within the castle’s well-manicured gardens.
